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[Brynjaminjones]

Lately I've noticed that the transmission in the XJ can sometimes be slow to engage reverse (and very occasionally drive), and is starting to show signs of slippage in reverse too.
I need to start getting everything as it should be as my friends and I want to take it on a European road trip in the summer!
I'm guessing that these problems mean I need to change the fluid (it hasn't been done in a long time), but I need some assistance!

Firstly, I've read in different places about different levels of fluid change. Some simply drain and refill, others empty, change the filter, then refill, and others talk about giving it a complete flush.
I've also heard some people say that by flushing an old transmission you may lose drive, as the old fluid holds a lot of the friction material.

I'm also struggling to find what fluid is actually the right one to use.


So, what I need to know is:
What level of fluid change should I do - drain & refill, change the filter too, or do a complete flush?

Is it true that I shouldn't flush it as it could cause me to lose drive?

And what fluid (that's available in the UK!) should I use?


Please feel free to treat me like a complete idiot - my knowledge on auto trannies isn't what it should be! 

[bigjeepzj]

fluid info hear
http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=8091.0
do normal drain change the filter for now
that should do the trick

You may be low on fluid.
remember the engine needs to be up to temp and box in neutral when you check the levels of an auto box

 

[gazjeep]

 

[bgbazz]

   with all of the above. I was taught, ages ago, to start the engine and while it was warming up, cycle through every selector position with the shift lever, pausing about 10 seconds in each and finishing in neutral, but I was also taught that not all trannies are the same and some need to be dipped in 'drive' , or even 'park'...while the engine is running. The engine temp is very important!

[bgbazz]

Just to add a bit to my above ramble...how many drivers jump in their vehicle in the morning (parked overnight), start the motor, and drive off within a moment or two? Probably most of us would be guilty, if we were honest....and how many of us bitch about the poor performance we experience from the motor or the gearbox at that time of the morning...probably most of us...right?

The correct amount of foreplay will work wonders....trust me!!

[Brynjaminjones]

Cheers for all the help guys!

Bazz,  I'm actually quite good on that front. When the XJ is cold I start it up, then let it run whilst I faff about putting my stuff in the boot etc, or just drinking coffee!

[bgbazz]

That's the way to go...do the same with the tranny as well and notice the difference.

[Dave69]

Cheers for all the help guys!

Bazz,  I'm actually quite good on that front. When the XJ is cold I start it up, then let it run whilst I faff about putting my stuff in the boot etc, or just drinking coffee!

then scrote comes along and takes car with keys.

driving off when cold is normal, to be blunt thats why there are thermostats fitted and choke systems on carbs and closed loop systems on fuel injected engines.

redlining the engine from cold is of course not advised

[Brynjaminjones]

Yeah, I don't leave it unattended apart from at home where I'm parked off the road!

I also am only so fussy about letting it warm because I have to drive up some quite steep hills that require reasonably high revs as I leave home! If I'm just going into easy low rev driving then I don't bother.

Sent from my Sony Xperia using Tapatalk

[bgbazz]

If the scrote comes along while I'm sitting in my Jeep, warming it up...wonder how he would feel looking down the barrel of my Browning...or the jaws of my Ridgeback. To be equally blunt, driving off straight away with a cold motor is NOT recommended by any vehicle manufacturer..anywhere! It's well known fact that the most wear in any motor will occur when it's cold!

But I might be wrong...I'm just the guy who is used to having motors stay intact and running smoothly at mileages up around a half a million kilometers, before a rebuild. I operate in temps of between minus 30 and plus 45 degrees centigrade and ALWAYS observe the warm up and turbo cool down sequences.

[JamesH]

I must say I was quite surprised when reading the manual for the WK that it specifies cool down time for the engine (turbo). I had previously thought that was for old technology turbo engines only. I do now observe the instructions, especially if I've been towing or driving hard, less if I've just rolled at 20 mph into the village and allowed it a bit of a cool-down anyway.

[bgbazz]

It is VERY important James...if you want the turbo to last! My Patrol has a warm up switch on the dash which brings the temp up to around 70 degrees (C) and I always observe that. The turbo cool down is a minimum of two minutes regardless of how I've been driving...top of the hill down to my house is about 2.5 kms, select neutral and roll all the way down with motor idling and then park with motor at idle for a further minute or so while I get sorted.

[Brynjaminjones]

I thought I'd dig this up again, as the transmission still isn't right.
Being the poor student I am, I've not been able to change the transmission fluid yet as I can't afford to get someone else to do it, and don't have the time at the moment to do it myself! I therefore guess it's not surprising that it's not yet fixed itself...


Anyway, I'm not sure if I'm imagining things but it seems like the shift from 1st-2nd is a little slow. Also, I started it up after sitting for a few hours the other day. It was 0 degrees out, and I idled for a minute then reversed out of my sisters house. As I was reversing gently up the reasonably steep driveway the XJ completely dropped out of gear and started rolling forwards in reverse. I stopped the car, put it in drive, then reverse again and it was fine.


Does this still just sound like it needs the fluid changing?
I'm also a bit apprehensive about changing the fluid - just how difficult is it to do?

[bgbazz]

First thing I would check is the fluid level and go on from there.

[wildwood]

On my ZJ if I didn't use it for a week or so the trans would need time for the fluid to circulate....
Noticeable in reverse......and a bit in first......when warm all normal

Big Ram truck has same symptoms except more so......guess cos trans is huge.....again up to temp and OK or give it a few secs in gear before applying the throttle....and all is good
Use every day and all is normal.........

Is this the Prob you were experiencing Abe?

Have you had the bands adjusted???..... These control the degree of harshness or effectiveness of the shift points......

[JamesH]

I've never had it drop out of gear but have had slow 'engagement' of it getting into gear before. Normally it's when reversing off (and down, with gravity) the drive and then put into D and go to pull away but nothing. Taking time to warm it up and shift through the gears a bit on the drive helps and it only happened when we had cold weather.

Even the fancy MB auto box in the WK does it - sometimes I worry about it and think about finding a fix but a few google searches just got me to 2 places - 1. Gearbox ruined and needs to be replaced, 2. fluid might be at wrong level / simple fix.

I've changed the fluid on both and the XJ is a doddle in comparison. For just a fluid change and not filter you can just empty via drain plug like engine oil change and then top up via dipstick tube until reading the right level (engine idling in P after cycling through all the gears, on level ground). I normally do that then check again after a little drive. Dexron III fluid, not too expensive.

[gazjeep]

Yep, what the boys said.

Our TJ does this, we reverse it down our drive, fairly steep & when stood for a few days it needs a minute or 2 to warm up or it rolls backwards when in drive, bit of left foot braking & right foot on the gas a little more until she starts moving forwards & uphill.

[wildwood]

Glad we're all singing from the same hymn sheet, slush boxes worry me.......especially after reading the Dodge diesel forum where everybody is upping the BHP and torque and then having to rebuild their gearboxes cos they can't cope........
It's not just the autos either.......
A built cummins will shread  a NV4500 for breakfast........


There is a moral here that's just what none of us adhere to........ Don't mess

[Dave69]

transmission check with engine at normal operating temp and in neutral rather than park???

probably needs a top up but oil change is not that hard as its filled through the dipstick.

filter change can be a pain due to the gasket moving about as you offer the sump back in place

[5536paulj]

Bryn,
I get similar symptoms to that when my fluid is low, top it up to the correct procedure..

To be controversial, a lot of manufacturers don't recommend changing the fluid these days, just top it up, as most autobox problems come after a fluid and filter change, if the fluid is nice and clean and doesn't smell burned I always leave well alone.

Since the addition of my transmission cooler my days of topping up seem to have gone away and my old beast doesn't get hot and bothered any more, Ade take note!

 

[Brynjaminjones]

Awesome, thanks for all of the advice guys. I could perhaps be accused of not checking the level regularly enough    - I shall check it next time I get it up to temp (rather than after driving to the supermarket 300 metres away like today  ).

If the level is fine, I think I may try just a change at first, as I'm sure I could find time for that.

Just as a side-note, I do regularly adjust the TV cable so I'm pretty sure that's not the problem, although I might tighten it a tad more to firm up the 1-2 shift.

[Dave69]

To be controversial, a lot of manufacturers don't recommend changing the fluid these days, just top it up, as most autobox problems come after a fluid and filter change
 

not changing the oil kills the fluid after a time due to the higher temperatures seen (hence a different oil), changing the oil is a preventative measure. Renault had the classic issue with their auto box fitted to the 1600 and 2ltr scenic. the box was so bad it killed the oil and and box causing Renault to withdraw it as an option for the 1600. Autobox companies recommend a change of oil to increase the life of the box.

for comparison, the engine oil is changed circa 6k or 12k miles, yet the autobox is advised to be service free.!!!!

[Brynjaminjones]

Quick question - what and how much fluid for a simple drain and refill? 

[Dave69]

Transfer case 242 1.4 05010124AA Mopar 7176 or Dexron II equivalent

taken from here

http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=8091.0

[donk498]

Transfer case 242 1.4 05010124AA Mopar 7176 or Dexron II equivalent

taken from here

http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=8091.0

Don't you mean

Auto transmission 3.8 05010124AA Mopar 7176 or Dexron II equivalent