Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[WillCJ]

OK, well you spot a bit of rust and start pecking away and before you know the Jeep is stripped down and major welding is under way, you know how it goes.
My question is, ideas or experience on repairing the rear load tray. I was just going to cut the front rusty bit out, weld in flat steel with supports, and add some 'dummy' strips to match the rest of it. I could maybe do that with the whole floor, flat sheet, supported accross below, and add some ribs to the top.

Then I was thinking, an original panel repair part is too expensive, but there must be othe panels out there that are profiled the same and big enough to trim down? I was thinking something like van floor panel I know Discovery boot panels are nearly suitable and cheap, tho not sure of size.

I added a pic, it has had a board glued to the floor and a rear deck on for years, so this has snuck up on me, as rust does.
It will be covered again with plywood to protect it as tools and recovery gear slide about.

Any thoughts?

[djrr6]

How big is the piece that you need? I have some fairly clean parts left from my jeep strip but they are in approx 1ft square pieces

Not sure if it is what you want but would be same profile

[Nosebolt]

Have a look for VW T2 Pick Up Rear Bed Ribbed Floor Panel they are 1500mm (Long) x 375mm (Wide) and are a plain sheet with no catches or holes and ribs run longways. may need 2 but at £30 each not a bad price for a profiled panel

[tris]

I have got a rear floor / rear end from a rust free YJ coming up soon. Depends how much of a rush your in?

[WillCJ]

How big is the piece that you need? I have some fairly clean parts left from my jeep strip but they are in approx 1ft square pieces

Not sure if it is what you want but would be same profile

I have got a rear floor / rear end from a rust free YJ coming up soon. Depends how much of a rush your in?

Have a look for VW T2 Pick Up Rear Bed Ribbed Floor Panel they are 1500mm (Long) x 375mm (Wide) and are a plain sheet with no catches or holes and ribs run longways. may need 2 but at £30 each not a bad price for a profiled panel

Thanks for the replies so far, the piece I need if I replace the whole floor (I am leaning toward that but not started cutting it out yet) is 3' (920mm) X 3'2"(960mm)
For cutting out the worst bits, 1' panels might have done djrr6, depends how much I end up cutting back.
The VW panels sound just the ticket with a couple of filler strips, will look in to that cheers, Nosebolt.
Tris, just was thinking of SORN 'ing it last night, but I don't like it being off the road for long, hate to get in to never-ending repairs, but thinking of touching up the paint all-round, see how I go, but hoping to sort it for Christmas hols, may be snow!

[tris]

If I get it cut before Christmas, I'll give you a shout? Will have the whole rear end so you can cut it to size in the comfort of your garage 

[WillCJ]

Well, I decided to replace the whole floor, the supports were ok at the back, I replaced the single front one with two, as I used flat steel dexion shelving , which I had already and just happens to be 3' wide!
 So, 20' of mig weld and 80 spot welds later........

[eastryjeep]

Crikey, Moses, you didn't want any rot coming back did you! Stirling job mate. Just a couple of questions, as I've got a similar job to do (only rear half of floor but rear cross member FUBAR) on mine.
1. How long did it take you to do?
2. What gauge steel did you use?
And umm....
3. Whats your hourly rate in pasties and bacon sarnies?

[WillCJ]

Crikey, Moses, you didn't want any rot coming back did you! Stirling job mate. Just a couple of questions, as I've got a similar job to do (only rear half of floor but rear cross member FUBAR) on mine.
1. How long did it take you to do?
2. What gauge steel did you use?
And umm....
3. Whats your hourly rate in pasties and bacon sarnies?

The hard part was seeing how bad it was!, that past and a bit of thought decided to take the whole floor out. fron part completeley rotted out, rear not so bad. I cut along the line of the rear body support channel, and followed the floor around the front half, cut that out completely with a thin disc in a 4" grinder. rear bit I wanted to save the cross peices, so carefully cut the sides, and peeled it back using a sharp thin splitting chisel on the spot welds. the rear supports were in good nick, took them out and cleaned and painted them. I used dexion racking shelf steel, its prob not as thick as the original to be honest, and no pressings in it to strenghten it, but there is plenty of structure at the back, and I added an extra one at the front to make two, pre-marked and drilled the back bit, welded in situe, made up the front bit on the floor and installed it in one piece. Say around two days?, and I am adding a hardwood ply or trailer flooring board around 8mm to strengthen and protect it.
Ah, but there is no fun in doing something a second time, starts to sound like 'work' lol. ( and (almost) everyone on Birty's seems to live so far south as to fall off the end) 

[WillCJ]

Just adding pics to show finished result, all sealed in and tidy again.

[j33pky]

Looooooooooking gooood

[j33pky]

Looooooooooking gooood

[Dutch]

Nice one Will 

[WillCJ]

Thanks for that guy's, truth be known I was chasing rust all over, more work on the cab floor and rear wings, screen frame etc, ended up painting the whole car!
(Also got a new screen cut while it was out, gone are the grinder sparks and wiper tracks!)