Topic: Brake replacement advice (Read 3550 times)

Brynjaminjones · « **on:** April 18, 2014, 07:33:36 AM »

Morning Chaps

A long journey in an overloaded XJ highlighted the fact that I shouldn't really go any longer without sorting the front brakes out. After overheating them in a sudden stop there was definite grinding when braking reasonably hard, which didn't go away until I drove very carefully for about an hour to let them cool down!

The front discs have been warped for a good while, so I know I need discs and pads. What ones should I go for - I'd like good ones but don't want to break the bank. I've not looked at what's out there yet, but am sure you lot know your stuff!

Is there anything else I should look out for when replacing them, and anything else I should replace?

Cheers!

wildwood · « **Reply #1 on:** April 18, 2014, 08:46:20 AM »

Easy answer Is one call to Lighthouse.
Or e bay for all the bits from whoever is selling at a price that suits your wallet

Far more time consuming is a WJ conversion and the transit van conversion for the rear .........

As it's a DD and you want to make it safe......at a price you can afford. The first options would be my advice

Tis also easy and a bonding exercise for you and your rig.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #2 on:** April 18, 2014, 08:55:50 AM »

Excellent, thanks for that. I'll be giving them a call on Tuesday (I made the mistake of calling them around Christmas and it didn't go down too well, so I definitely won't be calling them on a bank holiday!)

I honestly can't wait until I have brakes that don't make me want to avoid slowing down wherever possible!!

JamesH · « **Reply #3 on:** April 18, 2014, 12:15:59 PM »

Get discs the cheapest place possible and then buy some EBC Greenstuff pads. I had this for a while and was impressed, only got one case of brake fade when driving enthusiastically to Seven Sisters the scenic route over Welsh Mountains. Yellow stuff pads might help if you are really pushing it but it is a Jeep not a Porsche.

Follow this Pirate 4x4 guide and you should have good breaking without costing £££.

Bedding-in Brake Pads

When new brake pads are installed, they should be "bedded-in". Bedding-in brake pads is a process of breaking them in before severe use, similar to the way an engine or set of gears must be broken in.

To perform the “break-in”, follow the steps listed below:

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

This completes the “break-in” of the pads to the rotor surface. Full seating of new brake pads normally occurs within 1000 miles.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #4 on:** April 18, 2014, 03:28:52 PM »

Awesome, I had a feeling you'd be knowledgeable about this!

I think I'll go for the Greenstuff ones. I do generally brake gently, but when I first passed my test I didn't quite appreciate how much an automatic can eat brakes, which is probably why they warped!

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Dave69 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 18, 2014, 05:32:49 PM »

get the pads and disks off ebay as they will be cheaper than lightys, or try mill autos to see what they have. if your brakes are binding then replace the pistons and seals for new. not a hard job by any means but at least you will know that you will have good brakes. dont forget you might as well pull fresh brake fluid through as well

not pushing a sale in any aspect but i have two brand new calipers (fully refurbished) sitting in the garage somewhere just need pads. I'm in no rush to sell at the moment but if your interested make me a reasonable offer.

just-boot-it · « **Reply #6 on:** April 18, 2014, 08:41:05 PM »

I also have standard discs with ebc green stuff pads bought from 4play jeep. Improved stopping power that didn't break the bank. I think the pads were about £80. Probably worth changing the brake fluid at the same time imho.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #7 on:** April 19, 2014, 09:59:58 AM »

Excellent, thanks guys. You're right, I think I ought to change the fluid too - last time the mechanic looked at it his comment was "hmm, when was that last changed!?"

Dave, how likely do you think it is that I'll need to change the calipers? Without wanting to sound stupid can you explain to me what would cause them to need to be replaced?

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bigjeepzj · « **Reply #8 on:** April 19, 2014, 10:44:50 AM »

if the caliper pistons are sticking and the pads won't release of the disks.
then you need to replace the piston in the caliper.

it think you need to replace the fluid as if it's not been done wile you've owned it. then it needs doing

wildwood · « **Reply #9 on:** April 19, 2014, 11:00:48 AM »

The pistons become slightly oval with prolonged heat and then stick.
A piston and the rubber boot come as a kit and are a tenner or so, and easy to replace when you take the calipers to the bench.

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #10 on:** April 19, 2014, 11:15:25 AM »

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #11 on:** April 19, 2014, 04:57:18 PM »

Great, thanks for the advice. I'm not aware that my brakes have been binding at all, but is there any chance that they could have been doing so without me realising?

I'll ask my mechanic if he'd recommend replacing the calipers or not before I make any decisions!

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wildwood · « **Reply #12 on:** April 19, 2014, 05:56:05 PM »

Chances are that if they got hot they would have 'bound'
All four of the brakes on my ZJ were smoking and bound on when I stopped just before Breakout last year.......had to wait 30 mins for them to cool....
That was due to overloading ......towing the 1 tonne on its trailer up and down hills outside Bristol,
When it was only used to the Flatlands of East Anglia

isle of man · « **Reply #13 on:** April 19, 2014, 06:44:42 PM »

For brakes I always upgrade, no pussy cardboard for me!!!

Dave69 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 19, 2014, 08:36:22 PM »

to be honest Abe you only need a piston kit which will be piston and seals, which i think your looking around the £20 mark for the kit. cook the brakes big style and the pistons shape warps.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #15 on:** April 20, 2014, 03:13:55 PM »

As far as I'm aware I've never cooked them big time - I engine brake whenever possible around the steep hills in the lanes, and am always cautious not to repeatedly brake hard. I will look like into it though.

As for discs, would these do the trick? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131162594055?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

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Mike2909 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 20, 2014, 03:45:12 PM »

The main cause of warping the discs is by keeping your foot on the brakes when stationary instead of using the handbrake.
Town driving, having to stop at lights and keeping your foot on the brake instead of using the handbrake is the biggest culprit.
I have always been a big fan of Brembo discs and pads but that's personal choice.

Dave69 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 20, 2014, 05:40:13 PM »

brake pads are the sacrificail part of the braking system so these wear out way before any disk, the harder the pad the more wear on the disk and the higher risk of warpage. the warpage is dependant on the make of disk being used.

those are cheap enough and will get you going again. might have to swap them in a couple of years

Dutch · « **Reply #18 on:** April 20, 2014, 06:09:46 PM »

Quote from: Brynjaminjones on April 20, 2014, 03:13:55 PM

As far as I'm aware I've never cooked them big time

I wouldn't be to sure about that looking like this, it's not a 'kin horse & cart yer driving

bgbazz · « **Reply #19 on:** April 20, 2014, 09:45:04 PM »

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #20 on:** April 21, 2014, 01:25:48 AM »

I hope you're not laughing at how I always dress!

j33pky · « **Reply #21 on:** April 21, 2014, 08:18:07 AM »

Quote from: Mike2909 on April 20, 2014, 03:45:12 PM

The main cause of warping the discs is by keeping your foot on the brakes when stationary instead of using the handbrake.
Town driving, having to stop at lights and keeping your foot on the brake instead of using the handbrake is the biggest culprit.
I have always been a big fan of Brembo discs and pads but that's personal choice.

Why would keeping your foot on the brakes while stationary warp your disks?

Bubba · « **Reply #22 on:** April 21, 2014, 08:29:07 AM »

yes I am with the honourable ky on this

Dutch · « **Reply #23 on:** April 21, 2014, 08:52:46 AM »

Quote from: sheriff bubba on April 21, 2014, 08:29:07 AM

yes I am with the honourable ky on this

The curator has found following. Although relevant to early WJ's with other calipers, the cause 'might' be applicable to XJ's

All 1999-2002 Grand Cherokee WJ models built through May 10, 2002 came equipped with brake calipers made by Teves. They are black in color with an open-sided bracket design. Due to poor caliper centering, the Teves calipers caused the rotors to warp, a problem that has plagued Grand Cherokees.

Anorak back on the hook now

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #24 on:** April 21, 2014, 10:49:22 AM »

That sounds quite possible Dutch.

As for keeping your foot on the brake when stationary, I think I did read something about that once. There's a strong chance that I'm wrong, but I think the theory behind it was that leaving your foot on the brake after a hard stop, e.g. coming off a slip road then stopping at traffic lights, would prevent the heat under the pads from dissipating as well as the rest of the disc, causing a hot spot which could warp the disc.

This if from memory though, so feel free to correct me!

Also, I've ordered the stuff now. I went for some EBC Greenstuff pads, plus some reasonably cheap discs on eBay from a seemingly decent seller.

Author Topic: Brake replacement advice (Read 3550 times)

just-boot-it

Mike2909

j33pky